Got NASTIES? Clean them up!

My wife spent a whole day running the tub-clean cycle on our washing machine. It was due for the monthly cleaning tab, but left little gunkies behind, even after another rinse cycle. Baking soda? No dice. All-purpose cleaner? No dice. Time to pull the agitator plate.

Pop goes the plate cap!

Really, the cap comes off pretty easily with a light pry with a flathead screwdriver.

Center bolt is 10mm.

Simple enough. To remove the plate, some people pry the edges between the tub. That didn’t work for me. It was being stubborn, so I used the Google for help. This is what I found: https://youtu.be/a544XXlk6V4

Hm. Not only does he have a good plate removal method, apparently the tub itself gets pretty mucky and doesn’t clean well over time. Okay. I’m doing that, now.

Wire is a tool, too.

I used this general purpose wire to remove the actuator plate. See the three holes in the center ring of the actuator plate? Run this wire through them with enough to grab, and the even pressure is what’s needed to remove even a stubborn plate. (I also used a rubber mallet, a smidge.)

Tub bolts. There’s 6.

I didn’t take a picture of this during disassembly, so you get a re-assembly picture. But as you can see from the first picture, it was nasty. 6 bolts to remove the tub from the gear-plate. 8mm.

Take your top off.

Another 8mm bolt here and one on the other side.

This is where to pry on either side after the rear screws are removed. It will then slip forward and the top is removeable. Be careful, on the right rear near my hand in this picture, there is a sensor wire and a pressure hose. Don’t break those.

Retaining clips.

Here’s what the retaining clips look like on the upper tub retainer. There’s 8 of them.

This is what it should look like before you can remove the tub.

I’ve rotated the top around as to not damage the pressure tube and the sensor wire. I’m pulling the tube retainer off. Yes, it’s a good idea to have unplugged the washer before doing any of this.

Nasty, yo.

The tub removed. I’m going to leave some degreaser soaking on it for a bit.

Rest of the tub.

This is definitely the problem.

Scrubby dub dub.

I am so glad that I insisted on a laundry room sink. This is much easier with a sink right next to the washer that I’m cleaning.

Much better.

I’m not making soup in this thing, but it’s going to do laundry just fine. Not shown: my 1-gal shopvac used for water/sludge removal. It made my life much easier with this part.

The shiny bits.

This part took quite a bit of scrubbing. I decided it was easiest to use the floor drain as drainage and simply mop up after myself.

Clean. For now.

After a little analysis, I think I get gunkies built up from the hard water at my house. I don’t want to do this sort of thing even annually, but I am too poor to add proper water filters right now. So instead, I’ll be running the cleaning cycle with vinegar every other week or so.

Joystick got broken.

I guess I don’t have to tell you which Joy con is the favorite. I’m sorry that MarioKart wasn’t kind to you. Let’s get that broken joystick replaced for some more child abuse.

Got the replacement. This was about $15 for 2.

The package came with 2, and some thumbcaps. I guess I have one at the ready for the next time this happens. I’m not going to use the thumbcaps because they will get lost and possibly end up in my dog’s mouth.

Special screws!

This is typical of Nintendo. I guess it’s easier to buy a new one if you don’t have a screwdriver to get into it. Not this guy.

I have an assortment of tips for this reason.

I used the Y2 for this. As you can see I already put it in my screwdriver for this picture.

Cheap set. So of course, it doesn’t fit.

The tip was a bit big, but not by much. I still have something for that: a file. It took only about 3 swipes on each of the 3 recesses to have a good bite on the screw heads.

The insides.

This is where the fun stuff is. A quick glance indicates that I should pop the battery aside and the middle assembly screws should be visible.

I have my screwdriver pointed at each screw in each picture.

Board.

I really should have disconnected the battery during this operation, but the connector was being stubborn.

The home button ribbon goes right over the joystick mounting screw.

Simply flick up the grey tab and this ribbon can be pulled out of the way.

Next: Joystick connector.

The tab for the joystick ribbon flips up the opposite side as the home button ribbon.

Unmount it.

This step seems pretty self-explanatory.

Ribbon cable first.

The ribbon cable is a bit easier to put in before screwing the joystick down. I had to elevate the joy con because there’s a joystick there now.

Assembly is opposite of removal.

The home button ribbon can get in between the joystick and case if you’re not careful. You’ll notice when the mounting screw doesn’t want to go in.

The crew.

These are the tools I used for this. I’m not including Mr. File since the bit ought to have been the right size from the store. Y2 bit, 000PH bit, 5/64 flathead, and reverse tweezers.

2009 Subaru Forester. Exhaust pipe is cracked. Uh oh.

My sister’s car was making racecar noises. This is why. I had her order a new piece of flex pipe last week when we were investigating the noise.

First: get the pipe to where I can work on it.

This is the manifold and catalytic converter assembly removed. If you need removal instructions, this is where I’ll say get someone else to fix your pipe.

New metal blade to help cut exactly where I want it to.

My weapon of choice for cutting exhaust pipe is the sawsall. It cuts through pipe easily and the blades are robust. Use a bi-metal blade.

New pipe piece.

I really should have measured before she ordered it. It’s all good, though. I sent her a link to order one based on a rough estimate that I eyeballed last week.

I have marked my cut and started cutting.

The cinder block makes a nice brace to reduce chatter. I don’t want to damage the catalytic converter by shaking this too much during removal.

Cut it out!

It turns out that the new blade was a good choice. This had a couple of layers of pipe in there.

I used my grinder wheel to clean up the edges and my wire brush to clean up rust for a good welding surface.

Dry fit.

Always dry fit pipe before welding, or you’ll be sorry.

The gap here means a little bit of gap welding.

It’s not bad, I’ll just have to be weld with the speed down here so I don’t burn through the pipe during the gap weld.

Mask up.

Use your PPE and check your tools before use. I just barely replaced my spool of wire, so I have plenty.

Prepped and ready.

The most difficult part of this will be the small gap between pipe pieces. I just have to make sure that it’s solid and doesn’t leak. Normally, I would pressure test, but with 3 other holes, I don’t think I have the ability to.

Tacky.

Tack weld to make sure it stays while I finish the weld.

Together at last.

I’m not good at making my welds look nice, but they’re solid and air-tight.

The flange gasket.

Yeah, I was pretty certain this was going to have to be replaced, so we ordered a new one of these, too.

Mostly clean.

The wire brush is getting a workout today. Battery #1 on my drill died at this point. Good thing that #2 was at the ready.

It’s shiny.

This is going to be the easiest part of this endeavor.

Don’t forget to clean the mating flange.

I brushed off the other side of the flange. It might not seal well if I don’t.

Cleaned up the exhaust manifold, too.

I didn’t have to do a lot of work on the engine or exhaust manifold, since I replaced the engine less than a year ago.

Ready to roll.

I used some exhaust wire and mounting strap to hold the exhaust shields in place and reduce rattling. The car had a CEL, and I cleared them since this was the root of the issue. Funny enough, this happened the first week the car was due for emissions. It should be good to test tomorrow.

New Stereo for my 2008 Subaru Outback Limited.

Finished product. Looks great.

I also kept the original Aux input plug and added a USB jack straight to the stereo.

Not a great shot, but you can see them.

OEM Setup. Plays CDs. Aux in. Satellite radio.

Before pic. It still works and all, but I really want what I had in the car that I just gave my sister. Wireless Android auto with USB/Micro SD options.

I picked this one out. It’s not a brand name, but I’m going to fix anything that breaks.

It’s got all the goodies: USB type A and C, MicroSD, and wireless Android Auto.

I do have a problem. No Aux jack in the back.

I still want to use the Aux jack that came OE in my center console. I can use the USB cable that was installed by a previous owner in the back here, though. I’ll have to add a jack.

It seems simple enough.

The PCB for the front controls and inputs is that one on the left. I can’t see any leads for the aux-in jack here, though. Guess I’ll have a pop at the other side.

Ah. It’s mounted with the USB-C connector.

Alright. I’ll solder right to the jack’s board here.

The one I grabbed doesn’t have the Mic wire.

Not a problem. Don’t need it. I’ll be doing all my talking via bluetooth or Android Auto.

The right and left audio channels were a little more difficult to solder.

Jack itself is fine. It’s going to work the same.

Tight fit.

I did have to Dremel-cut out a small amount of plastic for the wires.

Jack’s not my name, Jack’s my job.

I wanted this. Boom. Now I have to get it a connector car-side.

No 3.5mm connector either. Obviously.

We’re looking at the CN402 8P connector. This picture is unhelpful. Forums are also unhelpful. Looks like I’m going probing.

The black and white thing here is aux-in jack from the center console.

6 pins. Why do I need 6 pins for a 4-wire jack? Let’s figure out what’s what.

The black box PCB.

Oh. Okay. It should have 5 pins, then.

The results.

Okay. I still only need 3.

I’m going to prep the new stereo cable now.

https://pinoutguide.com/Car-Stereo-Subaru-Suzuki/subaru_legacy_2008_pinout.shtml I needed this as the connector I got at the junkyard was not any of the right colors, despite coming from an ’07 Impreza.

It’s ready.

I have everything I need. I did test continuity to the front aux-in jack before I left.

Under the center console.

Nothing I haven’t seen before. Wait, what’s the red thing? It’s an electronics something. Board is marked HW-771 V1.2 Let’s see what a quick search says.

Treasure! Free Bluetooth/SD Micro/USB-A module.

I know exactly which project to use this on. My stereo in my game room needs an upgrade like this. I’ll test it later.

If you haven’t done this before, you would start with the bottom of the console trim, not here. I’m starting here.

‘Why the vents?’ you ask. There’s a secret cable back there that needs to be removed first or you could break it.

I couldn’t quite reach it. Looks like I’ll have to go behind the instrument cluster.

This is the driver’s panel being removed.

This support plate is also in the way before I can move the instrument cluster.

Two 10mm head bolts. I’m going to have to take a break here, since the wife wanted something else also done today.

Instrument cluster is loose. Now I can get all handy in there.

Two hands allows me to press the retaining clip as I pull the cable off the heater box.

This cowel has to be removed seperately.

It had a few crustys on the sides. I’m definitely cleaning this stuff before putting everything back together.

This also has to be taken out.

It has a connector for the not-cigarette-lighter. To pull this out, the car has to have the key in the on position and the shifter at least pulled down to Neutral. Make sure to have the parking/E-brake pulled. Don’t ask how I know this.

Side trim pieces next. No, not those side pieces.

I’m not going to make any more infidelity jokes here. I’ll save those for the podcast.

Mounted in the back. Screws in the back.

I have a fitting for any situation. Getting a bit head in the back just means a small extension.

Everything else is mounted with these 3 screws (per side.)

Unplugging it all is a small pain.

I have also unplugged the stereo at this point.

Out. Out damned thing.

I have to take another “honey-do” break at this point.

My new passenger.

I almost forgot to eject my daughter’s CD before I got here. Granted, it would have only set me back 5 minutes to make aa new one.

I do need my temperature controls back, tho.

It would be a rather painful rest of the car’s life without this.

CN402. I know your secrets. Your time is up.

I’m going to clip and solder a male 3.5mm connector here.

Done. That wire trace I made from the Aux-in box is used here on the other end.

I also had plenty of heat shrink thanks to Andy. My portable soldering iron is invaluable for these sorts of things.

Here’s everything.

I have to install the camera on a different day due to more wiring to be done in the back of the car, too. The wife has more “honey-do’s” for me to accomplish this weekend.

Brackets fit right.

I’ll have a lot of unused space behind this part of my dashboard now.

Test fit.

I picked the right mounting holes first time. Groovy.

Mounting the climate controls.

I cannot stress enough how much easier this will be to put in than take out. Don’t forget to re-connect the heater cable! And put the instrument cluster and driver’s panel back!

Going to detail just a bit.

Yeah, no way I’m going to forget to clean up all the nasties from the car’s past lives!

I lied.

The front plate has a lip that doesn’t fit over the stereo. Aren’t dual-DIN’s supposed to be the same size?

You didn’t cut it. Now you get cut.

My Dremel got to be used twice? I’m sure if it could talk, it would say something happy about it. The second picture is NOT the finished product, I forgot to take a picture of that. I did make a small oopsie, though, and sanded every cut surface pretty smooth and even.

Installation is opposite of removal from there.

Finished product. I did have to squeeze the top of the front cover plate to fit between the stereo and the dash vinyl. Aux works as expected, so does the USB, though it’s probably going to be used as a luxury for my daughter, since she’ll have a blast putting her music on whether USB or Aux.

I did leave the key in a bit long between the “honey-do’s”, so my battery died, hence the “Err 1U” on my instrument cluster. A charge-up and restart later, we’re good to go.